Tuesday, 6th January 2009
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Leading Innovation

There’s no doubt about it - the ethnic hair care market is booming.  With approximately 50% of African and Caribbean women choosing to visit the salon to get their tresses tended to by their favourite hairdresser, it’s not surprising that the industry was worth an estimated £60 million in 2004 in the UK alone.

Recognising the growth in this area, a number of big brands have sought to expand their business by creating products for this blossoming market, but few have done so with the same dedication, success and commitment to innovation as world-leader in hair care L’Oréal.

Determined to invest in the market rather than exploit it, in 2001 the brand strengthened its professional portfolio by acquiring MIZANI – a prestigious hair range specifically created for discerning African, Caribbean and mixed-race women.

Four years later, the line was introduced to British shores and now, two years on, is continuing to push the boundaries of innovation. Hype Coiffure, Battersea was MIZANI’s first appointed UK salon and Business Edge caught up with managing partner Kim Johnson and MIZANI Senior Product Manager Claire Linney to find out what makes the brand so unique.

Investing to innovate

As any established hairdresser will testify, whilst packaging and promotion are important elements of a hair care range, ultimately it’s the performance that will make it a success.  That’s why in 2003, the company took its commitment to the market one step further and invested in the multi-million pound L’Oréal Institute for Ethnic Hair & Skin Research.  

Based in Chicago USA, this dedicated centre’s sole purpose is to better understand the distinct properties of the hair and skin of individuals of African descent.  The valuable work conducted at the Institute helps L’Oréal to find new ways of fusing science and beauty to develop an even wider range of innovative products to better service the hair needs of black and mixed-race women in the UK. 

Kim Johnson, managing partner of Hype Coiffure Battersea and a MIZANI-trained stylist believes the investment and research behind the brand has paid off:

MIZANI’s investment in scientific research and development is evident in the performance.  MIZANI empowers the hairdresser, by creating products that allow us to personalise treatments according to each client’s individual needs so that we can achieve superior results. These formulae which balance the optimum protein-moisture levels improve the look and feel of the hair almost instantly, making it a popular range with clients.

Salon selective

Investment in research and development is not the only way MIZANI strives to innovate.  Whereas most hair care ranges dream of market domination, this brand takes a different and more selective approach.  Keen to reinforce its exclusive status, the products are available to salons by invitation only, providing just a limited number of the best black hair specialists with the opportunity to use and sell the prestigious brand.

When MIZANI was launched in the UK in 2005, it was important to find a salon that was synonymous with sophistication, success, service and styling excellence.  And with an army of talented stylists and more than 20 hairdressing, business and customer service awards under their belt, Hype Coiffure was the natural choice. 

As the latest addition to the Hype chain, the flagship Battersea branch in south west London became the first salon in the UK to stock the range. Groundbreaking hairdresser and Black Beauty/WAHL Hair Awards Southern Stylist of the Year 2003, Kim Johnson, was delighted to receive the invitation:

“MIZANI has been popular in the States for many years, so British hairdressers had been waiting a long time for it to hit the UK. To be the first to stock the products was a real privilege. It was particularly symbolic that it came to Battersea because we were a new salon joining forces with a new hair range.  It was like we were breaking into the industry at the same time.”

Johnson, who has been in the hairdressing industry for twenty years, also feels that MIZANI’s decision to limit distribution of the brand is a refreshing and effective approach:

By choosing which salons get to stock the range, it maintains exclusivity.  It will also help to ensure that professional products stay professional and are only used and sold by hairdressers who have the knowledge and experience to know what’s best for their clients.”                                        

She adds: “It’s also great for the clients, as the MIZANI appointed status demonstrates that those stylists have been trained in how best to use the products so they have that added confidence that they are in safe hands.

Marketing success

Now that the brand has been launched in the UK, how does L’Oréal make MIZANI stand out in a market that has become saturated with hair product ranges?

As the range is specifically designed to be exclusive, we devised a PR campaign designed to target discerning black and mixed-race women as well as leading Afro stylists.  From Black Beauty & Hair, Black Hair and Pride, to Marie Claire and Hairdressers Journal, we’ve secured coverage in the country’s best magazines because journalists and their readers love the product performance and packaging.   We combine PR with stunning marketing materials such as luxury display banners, retail stands and premium branded price list holders to really help make an impact in the salon,” explains MIZANI Senior Product Manager, Claire Linney. 

Claire also believes that word of mouth has been an incredibly powerful tool for the brand:  “As MIZANI has been established in the USA for fifteen years, many British hairdressers and women already knew about the range and often purchased retail products from appointed salons abroad to bring back home.  So we found that as soon as it was launched in London, we were inundated with calls from people wanting to get hold of the products”.

Their unique approach of working with a select number of hairdressers also allows MIZANI to dedicate more time to providing each salon with personalised promotional campaigns.  For example, the brand works closely with the regional press to generate awareness and stimulate local interest to drive customers through their salon doors.  A recent promotion for Hype Coiffure, Battersea resulted in numerous enquires and added new names to their already busy client list.

MIZANI also aims to be different by actively seeking out opportunities for appointed hairdressers to get involved in high profile events such as the acclaimed ‘Fashion In Motion Africa’, which was staged at the prestigious Victoria & Albert Museum in London.  Both Kim Johnson and Joy Miller from fellow MIZANI salon Junior Green Hair & Beauty were invited to design the hair for over twenty models taking part in the show, which featured three of Africa and Europe’s most exciting contemporary designers.   The stylists’ participation generated lots of media interest and presented an enjoyable session assignment for Kim.

I really enjoyed working on the fashion show; it was a challenging, yet exciting experience.  As well as running the salon, entering more competitions and becoming more involved in teaching, I’d also like to do more session styling and working with brands such as MIZANI is a great platform to do this.

Brighter future

In less than two years, MIZANI has made its mark on the black British hairdressing market – but there’s plenty more in store. It’s clear that by investing in its products, marketing and innovative ideas, MIZANI will not only add to the growth of the burgeoning Afro hair care industry but, with their forthcoming business ‘club’ event, exciting new product launches, and the introduction of a revolutionary service planned for this year, it will also help L’Oréal to maintain its reputation as the leader in hair care innovation in 2007 and beyond.

For more information about the MIZANI range, please contact L’Oréal Professional Products Division on 0845 6000 122.